How to Draft a Basic Bodice Block for Knit Fabrics: 5 Tips and Tricks for Success

If you’re a beginner in sewing or looking to improve your skills, then learning how to draft a basic bodice block for knit fabrics is an essential part of your sewing journey.

A bodice block is a pattern that serves as the foundation for creating different designs. In this blog post, we’ll explore the steps involved in drafting a basic bodice block for knit fabrics, and we’ll share five tips and tricks for success.

What is a Knit Fabric?

Knit fabrics are a type of textile that are made by interlocking yarns in a series of loops. They are typically stretchy and flexible, making them a popular choice for clothing items like t-shirts, sweaters, and leggings.

One of the key advantages of knit fabrics is their ability to stretch and recover. This makes them comfortable to wear and allows them to conform to the body’s shape.

Additionally, knit fabrics are often lightweight and breathable, making them ideal for warm weather garments.

There are many different types of knit fabrics, each with its own unique characteristics. For example, jersey knit is a common type of knit fabric that is often used for t-shirts and other casual clothing items.

Interlock knit, on the other hand, is a double-knit fabric that is thicker and more stable than other types of knit fabrics.

knit fabrics offer a versatile and comfortable option for clothing designers and consumers alike. With their unique properties and wide range of available styles, it’s no wonder that they remain a popular choice for garments of all types.

Understanding the Bodice Block

Before we dive into the tips and tricks, it’s essential to understand what a bodice block is and why it’s important.

A bodice block is a pattern that fits the upper part of the body, from the shoulders to the waistline. It’s used as a starting point for creating different designs such as blouses, dresses, and jackets.

The primary purpose of a bodice block is to create a customized pattern that fits the wearer perfectly.

Drafting a bodice block for knit fabrics is slightly different from drafting one for woven fabrics. Knit fabrics have more stretch than woven fabrics, so it’s essential to make adjustments to the pattern to accommodate the fabric’s stretch.

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Taking Accurate Measurements

The first step in drafting a bodice block is taking accurate measurements. It’s crucial to take precise measurements to ensure that the pattern fits the wearer perfectly.

The tools required for taking measurements include a measuring tape, a pencil, and a notepad.

When taking measurements, make sure to stand in a relaxed position with your arms down. Here are the steps involved in taking accurate measurements:

Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your bust.

Underbust: Measure around your rib cage, just below your bust.

Waist: Measure around your natural waistline.

Hip: Measure around the fullest part of your hips.

Back width: Measure across the back from one armpit to the other.

Front length: Measure from the base of your neck to your waistline.

How to Draft a Basic Bodice Block for Knit Fabrics

Once you’ve taken accurate measurements, the next step is to draft the basic bodice block. Here are the steps involved in drafting the basic bodice block for knit fabrics:

Prepare the knit fabric: To prepare the knit fabric, lay it flat on a cutting mat or table. Make sure the fabric is free from wrinkles and creases.

Calculate bodice block measurements: To calculate the bodice block measurements, use the following formulas:

• Bust measurement ÷ 4 + 1 inch ease = bust width
• Waist measurement ÷ 4 + 1 inch ease = waist width
• Hip measurement ÷ 4 + 1 inch ease = hip width
• Back width measurement ÷ 2 = back width
• Front length measurement = front length
• Draft the bodice block: To draft the bodice block, follow these steps:
• Draw a horizontal line for the bust width.
• From the bust width line, draw a vertical line for the front length.
• From the bust width line, draw a horizontal line for the waist width.
• From the waist width line, draw a horizontal line for the hip width.
• From the bust width line, draw two vertical lines for the back width.
• Connect the lines to create the basic bodice block.

Testing the Basic Bodice Block: Once you’ve drafted the basic bodice block, the next step is to test it. Testing the bodice block is essential to ensure that the pattern fits the wearer perfectly. To test the bodice block, you’ll need to create a toile.

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A toile is a mock-up of the pattern made from a cheap fabric such as muslin. The purpose of the toile is to identify any fitting issues and make adjustments to the pattern.

Here are the steps involved in testing the basic bodice block:

Create a toile: To create a toile, cut out the bodice block pattern from muslin or any cheap fabric. Sew the pieces together following the instructions provided in the pattern.

Evaluate the toile: Once you’ve created the toile, evaluate the fit. Look for any fitting issues such as gaping, pulling, or wrinkles. Pinch and pin the fabric to make adjustments.

Make adjustments: After identifying any fitting issues, make adjustments to the pattern. Here are some common adjustments:

FBA (Full Bust Adjustment): If the bust area is too tight, you’ll need to make an FBA. To make an FBA, slash the pattern horizontally across the bust area and add a wedge of fabric.

SBA (Small Bust Adjustment): If the bust area is too loose, you’ll need to make an SBA. To make an SBA, slash the pattern horizontally across the bust area and overlap the fabric.

Waist adjustment: If the waist area is too tight or loose, adjust the pattern accordingly.

Shoulder adjustment: If the shoulder area is too wide or narrow, adjust the pattern accordingly.

Back adjustment: If the back area is too tight or loose, adjust the pattern accordingly.

Finalizing the Basic Bodice Block:

After making adjustments to the pattern, it’s time to finalize the basic bodice block. Here are the steps involved in finalizing the basic bodice block:

Transfer the adjustments to the bodice block: Transfer the adjustments you made on the toile to the bodice block pattern.

Create a master bodice block: Once you’ve made the adjustments, create a master bodice block. This is the final pattern that you’ll use for future projects.

Using the bodice block: Now that you have a master bodice block, you can use it to create different designs. You can add sleeves, collars, or any other design element.

Conclusion

Drafting a basic bodice block for knit fabrics is an essential skill for any sewing enthusiast. It’s important to take accurate measurements, draft the pattern correctly, test the pattern, make adjustments, and finalize the pattern.

By following the five tips and tricks we’ve shared, you’ll be able to draft a basic bodice block that fits the wearer perfectly. Remember, practice makes perfect, so don’t be afraid to try the process for yourself.

With time and practice, you’ll become a pro at drafting bodice blocks for knit fabrics. Happy sewing!