How to Service Your Sewing Machine for Optimal Performance: 7 Steps

Over the years, a large variety of sewing machines have been produced. The older vintage machines are practically unbreakable; in fact, I was told by a highly competent and experienced seamstress that she still uses a 1929 treadle machine as her main workhorse.

The lifespan of newer machines is substantially shorter and they have a lot more plastic parts, especially the extremely cheap ones. However, any machine’s lifespan and efficiency can be increased with a little bit of maintenance, and my goal in this article is to demonstrate how.

Although all machines function in the same way, I’ll use a vintage device from the 1950s or 1960s for demonstration reasons in this Instructable because it makes it easier to show the mechanism.

If you can find one of these machines, you should be able to keep it going for a very long time—certainly much longer than a modern machine—as long as it’s intact.

There are a lot of spare parts readily available in the markets both on-line and off-line.

The following steps will help restore your sewing machine, if you follow the steps correctly:

Step 1: Clearing the Dust and Fluff

Remove any and all dust and fluff you may locate as soon as possible. It prefers to gather in between the feed dogs. To make cleaning easier, take out the needle, foot, and needle plate.

The feed dogs protrude through cutouts in the needle plate, which is a plate beneath the foot that is often held in place by one or two screws. You can use a pin or needle to remove matted dust and fluff; otherwise, use a brush and/or a vacuum cleaner crevice tool.

You can blow or use a can of pressurized air, but there’s a chance you’ll end up blowing the fluff deeper into the mechanism. Watch out for any needle fragments that may have fallen to the ground and could jam the mechanism.

Additionally, look for and clear away any debris that may have accumulated along the upper thread’s threading route, including any dust, fluff, or broken thread bits that may have fallen between the discs of the upper tension adjuster.

It is recommended to use high-quality thread because it sheds less fluff than lesser kinds.

Change the foot. Before reinstalling the needle, inspect it. From the shank to the tip, pass it back and forth between your fingers.

Any roughness can be delicately cleaned with fine emery, but if it has been in use for more than 6 to 8 hours, it is advisable to replace it. A bent needle should always be replaced because it will only cause problems.

Step 2. Checking the Bobbin

As seen in the first image, it is common practice with old machines to remove a plate close to the needle plate in order to access the bobbin.

A very similar mechanism is accessed from the front of contemporary front loading washing machines. The bobbin is lowered horizontally into a mechanism in front of the needle plate in newer top loading machines.

Many extremely ancient machines, such as those from before World War II, have a completely different bobbin that fits into a shuttle with a bullet-like shape that is thrown through a loop in the upper thread to create each stitch.

The mechanism on a vintage machine, as pictured, is hinged on a wooden base and may be lowered into a horizontal position and set on a stack of fat books enabling simple access to the underbelly. It was in this posture when the final pictures were shot.

Take out the bobbin and bobbin casing, then take out the bobbin. Blower any dust away.

A bobbin case holder that revolves with the machine’s operation accepts the bobbin case. It ought should be simple to take off, perhaps by unlatching a pair of clips on a retaining ring.

The hook, which is visible in the final image, is a pointed point on the bobbin case holder that is intended to catch the upper thread and then engage it with the lower thread to form a stitch.

When anything seems scratchy to the touch (perhaps from needle hits), remove any burrs with fine emery. Make sure to put things back together properly.

In the case of a used machine, confirm that all the bobbins it came with (and any additional ones you purchase) are the appropriate kind.

There are many varieties, many of which appear to be similar, and the incorrect ones, if they function at all, will lead to issues.

Step 3. Apply Lubricant

With an antique machine, this is simple. As in the previous phase, the bottom mechanism is accessible by tilting it on its side, and the top mechanism is often accessible by removing a few screws holding the top cover in place.

Modern plastic machines typically require a number of screws to be removed, after which a number of clips holding two sides of the plastic shell together may need to be released. Use a tiny spatula, blunt scalpel, or thin knife to probe the crevice between them to locate the clips.

Be careful not to push it in too much or the plastic will get damaged. A adjacent clip should be released by angling the spatula to lift one side of the case while pressing down on the other.

To keep the clip from re-engaging while you search for the next one, place an old credit card, plastic prying tool, guitar plectrum, or something similar in the gap that has been formed.

One extra screw may be concealed by a label or rubber foot if the case stubbornly refuses to separate.

Turn the hand wheel slowly to observe which parts move after you’ve gotten access to the top and bottom mechanisms. With the exception of nylon gears, wheels, or cams, which are typically greased for life, anything that moves needs to have its bearings, joints, or sliding surfaces oiled.

Only use sewing machine oil. Never use grease, motor oil, bicycle oil, olive oil, Vaseline, or any other type of oil. None of these are suitable for sewing machines.

Just a drop of oil should be applied to each bearing or connection. Remove any extra with a wipe before it has a chance to drip.

A vintage machine that has been out of commission for a while may have an extremely stiff mechanism or one that has entirely seized up. Completely coat it in oil (while removing any excess) and give it some time to absorb the oil. Repeat as necessary to ensure smooth operation.

Step 4. Checking the Tension

It’s crucial to check the bobbin tension because if it’s off, you’ll receive subpar results and perhaps even broken or snagged thread.

Thread a bobbin of thread under the tension spring after attaching it to the bobbin case. Hang it from a thread. If the tension is just right to sustain the weight of the bobbin and case, then the tension is appropriate.

It should unwind a little more thread if you give it a gentle shake. Adjust with the tension spring’s screw. Make sure there isn’t any fluff or fragments of broken thread under the tension spring if you experience any problems.

Step 5. Checking the Bobbin Winder

Take a look at the bobbin winder. This frequently uses a wheel with rubber tires to engage with the hand wheel. Replace the tire if it is worn, cracked, or damaged. Spare parts are often accessible.

Attempt to wind a bobbin. The thread tension should be adequate to create a tidy, taut (though not overly taut) pile. Bobbins that are poorly wound may cause issues.

(Since my machine doesn’t have a bobbin winder, I don’t have any photographs of one. I wind my bobbins on a dowel that is attached to an electric drill’s chuck.)

Step 6. Checking the Electrics

Make sure your machine is not still plugged in before attempting to handle any electrical components.

It is crucial that the foot pedal operates smoothly because otherwise sewing would be quite challenging. It might only require lubrication.

It will have a rheostat, a variable resistance linked in series with the motor, on older devices. A dimmer switch-like electronic speed control is more likely to be found on newer machines.

To figure out how to disassemble the foot pedal, you must first study it. Use any light lubricating oil or grease instead of sewing machine oil on sliding parts, and keep grease and oil away from all electrical contacts.

Also, check the tightness of the motor belt. By releasing the nuts or screws holding its bracket together, you should be able to modify it.

Check out the Electric Motors article on the Restart Project wiki if the motor is excessively sparking or doesn’t seem to be functioning properly.

It could be necessary to change the brushes or clean the commutator. If it appears that the motor bearings require lubrication, you should use grease designed specifically for electric motors, preferably in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations.

On older PCs, a replacement bulb is simple to install, but on modern ones, it can be wired in and more difficult to change. A more current LED alternative might be preferable to a filament bulb since it will operate considerably cooler.

But if the LEDs in an LED bulb appear to be facing sideways and the light source must mostly beam downwards, the LED bulb may not be the best option.

To ensure that the new one you receive has the same type of base, take the old one with you.

Step 7.  Timing Verification

Unexpected breaking threads may indicate that the timing has to be adjusted. It’s not too difficult to determine whether this is the issue, but it’s beyond the scope of what can be discussed in an instructable at this level.

It may be better left to a professional with the proper service manual.

When the hook snags the top thread, you need to be able to see both the needle and the hook. In the picture, I’ve flipped my machine over so you can view the inside, and I’ve taken out the bobbin and the plate that secures the bobbin carrier.

As I cranked the handwheel, I had to hold it to prevent it from falling out.

Turn the handwheel while holding the free end of the thread taut but without pushing while the needle is threaded until the hook passes the needle.

The handwheel has been cranked a little bit more in the picture to show the thread being firmly hooked.

The needle should pass the hook’s tip shortly after it has dipped to its lowest point. Normally, the needle should have raised 1/10 of an inch (2.5mm) or 3/16 of an inch.

At this moment, the thread becomes slack and forms a loop that the rising needle causes to be captured by the hook.

The thread should be dragged around the bobbin (if you have one in place) to create a stitch as you turn the handwheel even more.

Search online for your machine’s make and model with the key words “time adjustment” appended, and you should at the very least be able to see what is involved in altering the timing if you have the bug after reading thus far and the only other option is to discard the machine.

You must make sure that the eye is at the proper level underneath the hook at the needle’s lowest point and that the hook passes the needle after rising by the required distance.

If you can locate one, see the machine’s service manual for information on these settings and how to modify them.

Conclusion

I hope you’ve enjoyed the 7 steps to service your sewing machine. With this knowledge it will help you service and maintain your sewing machine for optimal performance, by extension give your machine a longer life.